Hems appear to be minimal in size, mostly around 1 cm. Both gowns and hoods were finished through folding over the edge of the fabric, and held down with a double row of short stitches. The edge was then overcast. Sometimes the hem is turned over and the raw edge left without edge treatment. A common edge treatment is also to do rows of 'prick stitch', which looks like a back stitch or a modern machine stitch, in that each stitch comes right up to the next on both sides, but it's actually done as a running stitch.

According to Norlund, an edge treatment relatively common is to edge it with a narrow cord, plaited from six strands of wool thread, or a simple 2-ply cord sewn on with an overcast stitch or a darning stitch. One garment was trimmed with cord and then turned over. However, later research suggests that these are in fact tablet woven just like the London examples.

London Data

hem stitch (single folded hem)

running stitch

top stitch

hem stitch (double folded hem)

Rolled hem

Neck facing (narrow silk strip on the straight grain)

edging finished with narrow tabletwoven braid